Best Black Friday Freezer Deals: What to Buy

The best Black Friday freezer deals in 2026 land in two clusters: mid-size chest freezers in the 7–9 cu ft class, which typically fall into the $200–$320 range, and frost-free uprights in the 13–17 cu ft class, which drop to roughly $500–$800. The single most important thing to verify before you buy is whether the model is rated for an unheated garage — a kitchen-rated freezer placed in a 20°F garage either runs almost constantly, fails to hold 0°F, or dies young from hard-starting.

How Freezer Pricing Actually Moves on Black Friday

Freezer discounts are not evenly distributed across November. They arrive in three waves, and knowing which wave you are in changes what you should pay.

Wave one: the pre-Black Friday leak (early-to-mid November)

Retailers publish “early Black Friday” pricing roughly two weeks before Thanksgiving, which in 2026 puts it in the second week of November. These early prices are usually the same as the actual Black Friday price, released early to capture searches. The advantage is inventory depth — the 7 cu ft and 10 cu ft chest freezers that sell out first are still in stock. The disadvantage is that you are buying before you can comparison-shop the full field.

Wave two: Black Friday through Cyber Monday (November 27–30, 2026)

This is where the deepest cuts appear, and where doorbuster-style capacity limits show up. Expect the biggest percentage discounts on high-volume classes: 5 cu ft chests, 7 cu ft chests, and 9–11 cu ft uprights. Premium and built-in freezers (Sub-Zero, Thermador, JennAir, Dacor) rarely discount on this schedule — those brands control pricing through dealers and discount on their own calendar, often in spring or via dealer rebates rather than a Black Friday doorbuster.

Wave three: the mid-December correction

If a model did not sell through, prices often dip again in the second week of December, then collapse in January when retailers clear floor models and last year’s SKUs. If you can wait until the second week of January, you frequently beat Black Friday on large uprights and on anything with a discontinued color or handle style.

Chest vs. Upright: The Head-to-Head

The chest-versus-upright decision is really four decisions stacked on top of each other: usable capacity, footprint, energy, and how much you enjoy digging.

The trade-off that matters most: a chest freezer costs roughly 150 kWh less per year than a comparable frost-free upright. At $0.17/kWh that is about $26 saved annually — real money over a decade, but not enough on its own to justify a chest freezer if you will not use it because it is annoying. A freezer you avoid opening is a freezer full of freezer-burned meat and wasted money.

Sizing: Cubic Feet, Real Food, and the 35-Pound Rule

Manufacturers sell cubic feet; butchers sell pounds. The conversion most useful for planning is roughly 35 lb of packaged food per usable cubic foot in a chest freezer, and about 25–30 lb per cubic foot in an upright, because of the space lost to shelf structure and door bins.

A practical rule: buy one size larger than you think you need, but no more than that. A freezer running half-empty wastes energy on every cycle, and an oversized chest freezer becomes a place where food goes to be forgotten. The sweet spot for most households that cook at home and buy meat in bulk is 7–9 cu ft in a chest or 13–14 cu ft in an upright.

Dimensions and Clearance: What Actually Fits

This is where Black Friday purchases go wrong. The freezer fits the garage. It does not fit through the door, around the stair turn, or under the shelf you planned to put above it.

The doorway arithmetic

A standard interior door has roughly 30–32 inches of clear opening once the door slab is off its hinges; an exterior door is usually 36 inches. That means:

• Chest freezers up to 11 cu ft will pass a 30-inch doorway, but only on their side. On its side, a chest freezer presents its depth and height as the cross-section — typically 22–24 inches by 33 inches — which clears 30 inches comfortably. The 44-inch length is the problem, not the width.
• Upright freezers must travel standing up. A 30-inch-wide upright in a 30-inch doorway is a no-go once you add door handles, which protrude 2–3 inches. Plan on removing the freezer door, or the house door, or both.
• Stair turns and hallway corners are the real killers. A 44-inch-long chest freezer cannot make a 90-degree turn in a 36-inch hallway without being stood on end, which is a two-person job at 100 lb and a three-person job at 160 lb.

Clearance once it is in place

Freezers reject heat through their cabinet walls and, on uprights, through a rear or bottom condenser. Manufacturers typically specify 2–3 inches behind and 1–2 inches on each side; some uprights ask for 4 inches at the back to let the condenser breathe. A freezer boxed into a closet with 1/2 inch of clearance will run longer cycles, use 10–20% more electricity, and shorten compressor life. Above the unit, leave at least 12 inches if you plan to open a chest lid — many lids are hinged at the back and swing up and back, so a chest freezer pushed against a wall may not open fully. Counter-depth chest designs and slide-aside lids solve this, but they cost more and are rarely discounted on Black Friday.

Leveling matters more than people think

A chest freezer that is not level will not seal properly along the lid gasket, which lets humid air in and creates frost. A 1/4-inch out-of-level over the length of a 44-inch freezer is enough to cause a visible gap. Bring a torpedo level and adjust the leveling feet before you load it. Garage floors slope toward the door by design, so this is not a hypothetical.

Energy Use: kWh, Real Cost, and the Manual-Defrost Trade-Off

Freezer energy labels are useful but optimistic. They are measured at a 90°F ambient in a controlled test, with the freezer never opened. Real-world use in a hot garage, with a family opening the lid three times a day, can run 20–40% above the label.

Why frost-free costs more

Frost-free uprights run a small heater around the evaporator coil several times a day to melt frost, plus a fan to circulate air. That heater and fan are the entire energy gap between a chest freezer and an upright of similar capacity. The payoff is that you never spend a Saturday chipping ice out of a freezer with a plastic scraper.

The 1/4-inch rule

On a manual-defrost freezer, frost buildup of just 1/4 inch on the walls adds measurable load — commonly cited as roughly 10% more energy. At 1/2 inch it is worse. If you buy a chest freezer and never defrost it, you will eventually pay more in electricity than the frost-free upright would have cost, plus you lose usable space to ice.

Where the freezer sits changes the bill

A freezer in a 50°F basement uses less energy than one in a 75°F kitchen. A freezer in a 100°F garage uses dramatically more. If your garage regularly exceeds 100°F in summer, budget for a 25–35% energy premium over the label, and confirm the unit is rated for that ambient (see below).

Garage or Kitchen? Ambient Ratings Decide

This is the specification that separates a good Black Friday purchase from a return. Freezers are rated for an ambient temperature range, and the range is printed in the owner’s manual and often on a sticker inside the lid.

What actually goes wrong in a cold garage

Below roughly 40°F ambient, three things happen. First, the refrigerant pressure on the low side drops, so the compressor has less to work with and the freezer struggles to pull the cabinet down to 0°F. Second, the compressor oil thickens, increasing wear at every start. Third, some frost-free uprights use the compressor cycle itself to drive the defrost timer; in a cold garage the compressor may not run often enough, so frost accumulates and the evaporator eventually ices over. A “garage-ready” freezer adds a heater around the compressor and a thermostat that keeps the cabinet functioning at low ambient — that is the actual engineering difference, not marketing.

If you live somewhere with mild winters (rarely below 40°F), a standard freezer in the garage is usually fine. If you get real winters, buy garage-rated or move the freezer indoors. The price premium for garage-ready is typically $50–$150 on comparable capacity, and it is the best money you will spend in this whole category.

Kitchen placement: noise and heat

Freezers are not silent. A chest freezer runs around 35–45 dB — about the level of a quiet conversation. A frost-free upright with a circulating fan runs 40–50 dB, and the defrost cycle adds a periodic fan-and-drip noise that some people find more annoying than the compressor hum. In an open-plan kitchen, that matters. Also note that a freezer dumps its heat into the room — roughly 300–500 BTU/hr while running. In a small galley kitchen, that is a noticeable warmth.

Decision Matrix: Match the Freezer to Your Situation

Compact Chest Freezers (3.5–5 cu ft)

The 5 cu ft chest freezer is the classic Black Friday doorbuster, and in 2026 it typically lands between $150 and $260 depending on brand and finish. Frigidaire, Midea, Danby, Magic Chef, Igloo, Insignia, Element and Arctic King all field a model in this class, and they are functionally similar: a single wire basket, a manual defrost drain, a mechanical or simple dial thermostat, and a lift-up lid.

What you get: roughly 28 inches wide, 22 inches deep, 33 inches tall, 60–70 lb empty, and about 175 lb of food capacity. Annual energy use sits around 200–250 kWh, which is $37–$43 a year at $0.17/kWh. It will hold two months of frozen groceries for two people, or act as overflow for a household that already has a fridge-freezer.

What to check before buying: whether the lid is counterbalanced (cheap models drop), whether the basket is included (some budget SKUs omit it), and whether the drain plug is threaded for a hose (makes defrosting far less miserable). If the freezer is going in a garage, confirm the ambient rating — most 5 cu ft models in this price band are standard household rated, not garage-ready.

The 3.5 cu ft versions are worth considering only if space is genuinely tight. They hold around 120 lb and cost nearly as much as a 5 cu ft, so the value per cubic foot is poor. Buy the 5.

Mid-Size Chest Freezers (7–9 cu ft)

This is the best value in the entire category and the class where Black Friday discounts bite hardest. Expect $200–$320 for a 7 cu ft and $260–$400 for a 9 cu ft. Frigidaire, GE, Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana, Midea, Danby and Insignia all compete here.

The 7 cu ft chest is roughly 35 inches wide, 22 inches deep and 33 inches tall, weighs 75–85 lb empty, and holds about 245 lb of food — a quarter of beef with room for frozen vegetables and bread. Energy use runs 250–310 kWh/yr realistically.

The 9 cu ft version stretches to about 42 inches wide and adds roughly 70 lb of capacity. It is the size to buy if you are splitting a half beef with someone or if you have a large garden. The width is the constraint: at 42 inches it still passes a 30-inch doorway on its side, but it needs a longer straight run to maneuver.

Features worth paying for in this class: an interior light (rarer than you would think on chest freezers), a second basket, a power-on indicator, and a temperature alarm. A temperature alarm is genuinely useful — a chest freezer that quietly dies in a garage in July is a $400 loss in meat.

Large Chest Freezers (10–12 cu ft)

The 10 cu ft chest is the workhorse of bulk buying. Typical Black Friday pricing is $280–$450. Dimensions land around 44 inches wide, 24 inches deep and 33 inches tall, with an empty weight of 95–110 lb. Capacity is roughly 350 lb.

Two people can move this, but it is at the limit of what is comfortable on stairs. If your destination is a basement with a turn at the bottom, arrange help or pay for delivery-plus-placement rather than white-glove drop-at-the-door.

Energy use realistically runs 330–380 kWh/yr. The 12 cu ft versions push closer to 400 kWh and about 420 lb capacity, and they usually cost $60–$100 more than the 10 cu ft. Whether that is worth it depends on whether you are actually filling it. A 12 cu ft freezer kept two-thirds full is a worse purchase than a 9 cu ft freezer kept full.

Look for a defrost drain that exits at the front bottom, a lid that stays open on its own, and a basket that slides rather than hangs. Sliding baskets on rails make the bottom third of a large chest freezer reachable, which is the difference between using the space and wasting it.

Extra-Large Chest Freezers (14–16 cu ft)

This is the whole-beef class. Black Friday pricing typically runs $400–$650. The footprint is serious: 55–62 inches wide, 29 inches deep, 33 inches tall, 140–165 lb empty. Capacity is 490–560 lb of food. Energy use is 420–490 kWh/yr realistically — about $71–$83 a year at $0.17/kWh.

At 29 inches deep, this freezer will not pass a 30-inch doorway on its side comfortably; the cross-section when tipped is 29 by 33 inches, which is tight against a 30-inch clear opening with trim and a door frame. Measure the actual clear opening, not the nominal door width. Many people in this class end up removing a door frame or taking delivery through a garage.

Also consider floor loading and access: a 160 lb freezer plus 500 lb of meat is 660 lb concentrated on four small feet. On a wood-framed floor over a crawlspace, put it near a load-bearing wall rather than in the middle of a span. On a concrete garage slab, no issue.

Brands in this class include Frigidaire, GE, Whirlpool, Maytag and Midea, plus farm-and-ranch oriented sellers that ship directly. If you are buying for a hunting property or a chest freezer for a barn, check whether the model is garage-rated and whether the warranty excludes commercial or outbuilding use — some do.

Walk-In-Size Chest Freezers (20 cu ft and up)

Above 20 cu ft, you are in a different purchasing world. These are typically 65–70 inches wide, 29–31 inches deep and 33–34 inches tall, weighing 200–280 lb empty, with 700 lb or more of capacity and 500–600 kWh/yr energy use. Black Friday discounts exist but are modest, and pricing commonly runs $700–$1,200.

At this size, delivery is not optional and neither is planning. These units often ship freight with curbside delivery only — meaning you are responsible for getting 250 lb from the end of your driveway into position. Confirm before you buy whether the price includes inside placement, and what happens if it will not fit through the door.

Compact Upright Freezers (3–5 cu ft)

Compact uprights are the apartment and small-kitchen answer. Typical Black Friday pricing is $180–$350. They run about 20–24 inches wide, 22–24 inches deep and 33–56 inches tall, and weigh 80–115 lb empty. Capacity is 100–175 lb.

The advantage over a chest of the same capacity is the footprint and the access — you open a door and see everything on shelves rather than lifting a lid and digging. The disadvantage is that a compact upright often has a manual defrost and a small, exposed evaporator shelf that ices up quickly if you put warm food in.

Two features matter here: a reversible door (so it can open into the available space rather than into the room) and whether it is a “freezer” or a “refrigerator/freezer convertible.” Many compact units sold at this size are convertibles, which is a genuine advantage — you can run it as a fridge for holiday overflow and a freezer the rest of the year.

Small Upright Freezers (6–7 cu ft)

At $250–$400 on Black Friday, the 6–7 cu ft upright is the sweet spot for a one- or two-person household that wants organization without giving up floor space. Dimensions are typically 24 inches wide, 24–26 inches deep and 56–60 inches tall, weighing 100–130 lb. Capacity is 150–200 lb.

Most in this class are manual defrost. Frost-free at 7 cu ft exists but is less common, and it costs both money and energy. If you buy manual defrost, plan to empty and defrost it twice a year; it takes about two hours if you use a hair dryer on low and towels on the floor, plus another hour for the cabinet to come back down to temperature.

Check the shelf adjustability. A 7 cu ft upright with fixed shelves may not accommodate a turkey or a half sheet pan; adjustable or removable shelves turn the same cabinet into a much more useful box.

Mid Upright Frost-Free Freezers (9–11 cu ft)

This is the most popular upright class and the one most likely to be discounted meaningfully on Black Friday, typically to $450–$700. Frigidaire, GE, Whirlpool, Maytag, Samsung, LG, Insignia and Hisense all compete here.

Typical dimensions: 28–30 inches wide, 26–30 inches deep, 60–65 inches tall, 130–150 lb empty, roughly 300–375 lb capacity. Realistic energy use is 430–500 kWh/yr — noticeably more than a chest of similar capacity, and the reason is the automatic defrost heater and circulation fan.

What separates a good one from a mediocre one:

• Door bins that are deep enough for frozen pizza and bagged vegetables. Shallow bins waste the most accessible space in the freezer.
• Full-width glass shelves rather than wire, which contain spills and slide out for cleaning.
• A frost-free system that does not dry food out. Circulating air dehydrates unwrapped food faster. If you buy frost-free, invest in a vacuum sealer — it is the single best accessory purchase in this category.
• Garage-ready rating if it is going outside the house.

Also note the door swing. An upright freezer door opens roughly 90 degrees and needs about 30 inches of clearance in front. In a narrow galley or against a wall, confirm the door can open far enough to pull out a shelf.

Large Upright Freezers (13–17 cu ft)

This is where Black Friday produces the biggest absolute dollar savings, with prices typically landing at $500–$850. Dimensions run 30–33 inches wide, 29–31 inches deep and 66–70 inches tall, weighing 170–200 lb empty, with 325–500 lb of capacity. Energy use is 520–610 kWh/yr realistically, which at $0.17/kWh is $88–$104 a year.

The 17 cu ft class is genuinely large — it is a full-height appliance and needs a space roughly 34 inches wide, 33 inches deep and 70 inches tall to install with proper clearance. It will not fit under standard upper cabinets, and it will not fit through a 30-inch interior door without removing the door and the freezer door.

Features worth the money at this size: an audible high-temperature alarm, a power-failure indicator, a fast-freeze or quick-freeze setting that drops the cabinet to about −10°F for a set period, and a lock (useful in shared garages). Also look for interior LED lighting — a 70-inch-tall freezer with a single bulb at the top leaves the bottom shelf in shadow.

Convertible Fridge/Freezers

Convertibles are the most underrated Black Friday purchase in this category. These units let you switch the cabinet between refrigerator and freezer operation — often with a digital control that sets the temperature anywhere from about −10°F to 45°F. Typical Black Friday pricing is $300–$600.

The practical value: you can run it as a freezer during hunting season or harvest, and as a beverage fridge or overflow fridge for a party the rest of the year. Many are garage-rated, which makes them a genuinely useful second appliance in a mudroom or garage.

The trade-off is that a convertible typically has less insulation and a smaller compressor than a dedicated freezer of the same size, so it holds temperature less well in extreme ambient. It is also more likely to have a manual defrost. Read the ambient rating carefully — a convertible rated to 0°F ambient is a very different appliance from one rated to 40°F.

Drawer and Under-Counter Freezers

Drawer freezers solve a specific problem: reaching into a chest freezer when you have limited mobility, or wanting freezer storage in a kitchen island. They are typically 24 inches wide, 24 inches deep and 34 inches tall to fit under a counter, and hold 3–5 cu ft. Black Friday discounts are limited and pricing generally runs $600–$1,500.

Under-counter freezers cost two to four times what a comparable-capacity chest freezer costs, so buy one only if the form factor is the point. Check whether the unit is designed for built-in use (front-venting, so it does not need side clearance) or freestanding (needs 2–3 inches on the sides and back). Putting a freestanding freezer in a tight cabinet cutout is one of the most common installation mistakes and it kills compressors.

Premium Built-In and Column Freezers

Built-in and column freezers — Sub-Zero, Thermador, JennAir, Dacor, Bosch, Fisher & Paykel, and similar — rarely appear in Black Friday promotions in any meaningful way. Pricing typically runs $4,000–$10,000+, with 24-inch-wide columns around 84 inches tall and panel-ready fronts that accept cabinet panels.

What you are paying for: precise temperature control (often within ±1°F), dual compressors in some designs, humidity management that reduces freezer burn, and a flush installation that sits level with cabinetry rather than protruding. If you are remodeling a kitchen and want freezer capacity that looks built in, this is the category — but plan to buy on a dealer rebate cycle, not a doorbuster.

Installation realities: these require a framed opening with exact dimensions, a dedicated circuit in many cases, and a plenum or vented toe kick for heat rejection. Get the spec sheet before the cabinets are ordered, not after.

Off-Grid and DC Freezers

If you are buying for a cabin, an RV, or an off-grid property, DC-powered freezers from manufacturers like Sundanzer and portable compressor units from Dometic, Engel and Whynter are the relevant products. They run on 12V or 24V DC and draw very little — often 0.5–1.5 amps at 12V while running — and they are typically rated for high ambient temperatures, which makes them viable in a hot shed or on a porch.

They cost far more per cubic foot: expect $900–$2,500 for a chest-style DC freezer in the 5–10 cu ft range. Black Friday discounts are rare and small. The reason to buy is not price, it is that a standard AC freezer on an inverter is inefficient and hard on the compressor.

What Wears Out First: Durability Realities

Freezers are simple machines, and they fail in predictable places. Knowing the order of failure helps you decide whether an extended warranty is worth it and what to inspect on a floor model.

Most manufacturers offer a one-year parts-and-labor warranty plus a longer sealed-system warranty, commonly five years, covering the compressor and refrigerant circuit. That longer warranty is the one that matters, because the compressor is the expensive failure. Ask specifically: how long is the sealed-system coverage, and does it include labor? Many are parts-only after year one, which means a $400 compressor plus $300 in labor is on you.

The single most effective thing you can do to extend freezer life is keep it out of extreme heat and give it airflow. The second is to not overpack it so tightly that the door or lid will not seal.

Moving a Freezer Without Breaking It

Freezers are heavy, top-heavy when upright, and full of refrigerant and oil that do not like being tipped. The rules:

• Chest freezers: transport upright if possible. If it must go on its side to pass a doorway, lay it on the side opposite the compressor and do not leave it there longer than necessary.
• Upright freezers: transport upright, always. Laying one down puts oil into the refrigerant lines and can flood the compressor on restart.
• Settling time: after moving a freezer that was laid down, let it stand upright before plugging in. Four hours is a common minimum; 24 hours is safer and is what many manuals specify. If it traveled upright the whole way, an hour is usually fine.
• Straps and a dolly: an appliance hand truck with stair-climbing belts is the difference between a two-person job and a four-person job. A 160 lb freezer on stairs without straps is a genuine injury risk.
• Remove the door or lid before moving an upright through a tight doorway. It saves 15 lb and 3 inches of width.
• Never lift by the condenser coils on the back of an upright. They bend, and a bent condenser is a refrigerant leak.

Box weight is the number people underestimate. A 5 cu ft chest at 65 lb is manageable. A 17 cu ft upright at 200 lb is not, and the packaging adds 15–30 lb on top. If delivery is curbside only, have help arranged before the truck arrives.

Delivery, Installation, and Warranty Math

Black Friday appliance purchases frequently include free delivery, but “free delivery” has tiers. Curbside means the truck stops at the end of your driveway. Threshold means it comes inside the front door. White-glove or premium means placement in the room, unpacking, and haul-away of the old unit.

For anything above 10 cu ft, the placement tier is worth paying for. It typically adds $50–$150, and it removes the risk of you damaging the unit, your door frame, or your back. Confirm three things in writing: whether the old unit is hauled away, whether the delivery includes unpacking and removal of packaging, and what the return policy is if the freezer will not fit through the door. Many retailers treat a failed fit as a return with a restocking fee, which on a $600 freezer is $60–$120 you did not plan on.

On extended warranties: a freezer is a low-complexity appliance with a low failure rate in the first five years, and the manufacturer already covers the sealed system for five years on most brands. Third-party extended coverage typically costs 15–25% of the purchase price for three to five years. On a $300 chest freezer, that is poor value. On a $1,200 upright with a digital control board and a linear compressor, it is a closer call — but check whether the manufacturer’s own warranty already covers the parts you are worried about.

What to Skip on Black Friday

• Unknown-brand doorbusters with no parts availability. If you cannot find a gasket for the model in five years, the freezer becomes disposable. Stick to brands with established service networks.
• Freezers that are not garage-rated, if the garage is where it is going. A $60 saving here costs a $400 freezer.
• Oversized units at deep discounts. A 21 cu ft upright at 30% off is not a deal if you fill a third of it.
• Extended warranties on inexpensive chest freezers. The math does not work.
• Freezers with a fixed, non-reversible door if you have not measured the swing. This is the single most common installation regret.
• “Commercial” or “laboratory” freezers unless you need them. They cost three to five times as much, run louder, and their warranty often excludes residential use.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is a chest freezer or an upright freezer cheaper to run?

A chest freezer, by a meaningful margin. A 10 cu ft manual-defrost chest typically uses 330–380 kWh per year in real use; a 13–14 cu ft frost-free upright uses 520–610 kWh. Part of that gap is capacity, but even at matched capacity the chest wins by roughly 100–150 kWh a year because it has no defrost heater and no circulation fan. At $0.17/kWh that is $17–$26 annually.

Can I put a regular freezer in my garage?

Only if it is rated for the temperature your garage actually reaches. A standard household freezer is typically rated to about 40°F ambient at the low end. Below that, it may not hold 0°F and the compressor will hard-start. Garage-ready models are rated to about 0°F. Check the manual or the rating sticker, not the marketing copy on the box.

How long does food stay safe in a freezer during a power outage?

A full freezer holds a safe temperature for roughly 48 hours if you do not open the door; a half-full freezer, about 24 hours. A chest freezer does better than an upright because cold air does not spill out when the door opens. If you expect long outages, freeze water in milk jugs to fill empty space — it adds thermal mass and it gives you drinking water as it thaws.

How often do I need to defrost a manual freezer?

When frost reaches about 1/4 inch on the walls — typically once or twice a year in a humid climate, less often in a dry one. Defrosting takes two to four hours including cool-down. Frost thicker than 1/2 inch adds noticeable energy use and steals usable capacity.

What size freezer do I need for a quarter of beef?

A quarter of beef is roughly 110–130 lb of packaged meat, which needs about 3.5–4 cu ft of usable space. A 5 cu ft chest freezer handles it, but a 7 cu ft gives you room for the rest of your groceries without repacking. For a half beef (220–260 lb), plan on 7–8 cu ft of usable space, which means a 9–10 cu ft chest or a 13–14 cu ft upright.

Do freezer deals get better after Black Friday?

Sometimes. Mid-December often brings a second discount round on models that did not sell through, and January clearance on discontinued SKUs can beat Black Friday by 10–20%. The trade-off is selection: by January, the best-selling capacities are gone. If you need a