Are you looking to buy an A / V receiver, known as a home/theater receiver? If that’s the case, navigating the plethora of likes and features out there today can seem daunting. But it doesn’t have to be hard work. Most receivers available these days will please 95% of people, usually separating features and specific numbers of minutes. Some people refer to the A / V receiver as the heart of your home theater. This is mainly because it is the central piece used to control everything you use to watch TV, movies, and music. You don’t have to use it for anything just because your TV has its own speakers, but you’ll want to do it once you try it. With this guide, I want to educate you on the many “basics” and features of A / V receivers and what they mean. This guide will not cover 100% of all receiver glasses because it is not taken care of by most people. Instead, I will go into the properties of most of our features and what we want to look for.
Initially, the A / V receiver is used to power your speakers and switch your TV display based on what you’re doing, such as watching TV/movies, listening to music, or Internet radio / iPod. At the same time, it should be able to easily switch between all your devices while providing great sound quality. You need to know about input to make it work properly. You should buy any receiver today and include the input/connection of all your devices. HDMI connectors are used in most devices nowadays but many of us still have some older devices that use RCA (round with pin) connectors. I recommend looking for a receiver with HDMI 1.4 or higher compatibility. It will work with new 3D programming and is backward compatible with all low-rated tools. Nowadays most receivers will also include old-style RCA inputs but it is a good idea to verify it only in case. You should look for a receiver with at least 4 inputs. Even better in this case. Take a look at the devices in your auditorium. You may have the following or all; Blu-ray player, DVD player, CD player, game system, media player (WDTV, Apple TV, Roku), and iPod. If you have a record player, look up the phone’s input. These days they are hard to find included in receivers, so you may need to use the “Auxiliary / Aux” input and use a separate phono amp. If you have older devices that do not include an HDMI port to get digital sound, they usually include an optical (Toslink) or coaxial (RCA style) output. Be sure to include enough.
An A / V receiver with at least 5.1 channels is recommended. If you don’t need a lot of such channels, I still recommend it because there will be additional features like using additional channels to get the second set of speakers in another room. You can also upgrade by adding additional speakers in the future. 5.1 Channels include front left, center, and right speakers, rear left and right speakers, and finally subwoofer (the.1). There are 7.1, 7.2, and 9.1, 9.2 channel systems available, but most people don’t have much speaker space. The more you do, the more immersive the audience experience becomes. Additional channels will include additional rear channels and/or front-mid speakers. I used a 5.1 channel system and liked it.
You’ve spent so much on your speakers, you need some good cleaning power. So what does that mean you might ask … shouldn’t it be “better”? The answer is no big deal! The quality of the amplifier is the most important feature when compared to the power rating. A distortion rating of 0.0% will provide a surprisingly crisp and clear sound. The lowest of these ratings is very hard to find, and even a 0.06% rating would seem amazing to most of us. So the better the number the better. The distortion is rated as Total Harmonic Distortion (THD). Now let’s look at the power ratings. These are listed in watts. Watts doesn’t work the way you normally would. For example, a 100-watt rating does not provide twice the amount of a 50-watt rating. To double the volume in the same level setting you need to go from 100 watts to one thousand watts! Another way to look at it is that running from 80 watts to 100 watts gives you only 1 decibel of extra volume on a certain level set.
Once you’ve chosen the receiver that’s right for you (feel free to use the link at the bottom of this article for the latest “best bang for the box” models) you’ll want to set it up properly. This simple process is usually overlooked by most people, yet provides you with a well-balanced and room-based sound that will impress you and your guest. I only recommend choosing a receiver with an on-screen interface.
Remember the HDMI and RCA type inputs we discussed earlier? Here you will enter that information. Typically, they will work with priority, which means the customer will first search for the type of connection you want, then for other types if you have changed something over the years. Next to determine the speaker’s sound level; Here’s to today’s latest recipients really shining. Do a search with Odyssey set-up. The Odyssey is the second or more recent recommendation. With the built-in software, GUI will guide you through a microphone (should it be included, check if it is included) in different listening areas where you and your guests will be sitting. Pulsing sounds will be played from each speaker and the level will be adjusted automatically keeping in mind the acoustics of your room. You can see why this is so helpful. In the old days, you had to buy an SPL meter to measure sound output or do it by ear.