Buying audio equipment can be difficult if you do not know the way around you. Who do you trust? Saleswoman? He will only say what you want to say for the commission piece.
Amps: Do you know (for example) what it really means? Everyone seems to know what it means, the revelation has been around for so long. Unfortunately, the definition of truth is rarely known. In audio, there are three kinds of power; Peak power, RMS power, and last but not least, music power. So let’s get it!
In consumer electronics, everything is measured by glasses but it is also a good idea to listen before buying audio equipment. However, since in today’s high-tech systems, buying a bad system is a bit difficult (unless you get too cheap) I won’t think too much about it. The most common problem for a bad output is connectivity (your cable or cable connection).
With this section, we will be your guide to understanding all the meaningless terms like confusing the customer when buying the best home theater audio system.
Choose an AMP!
A good amp should be heavy (not on a scale) but heavy when rescuing. In other words, a high current amplifier is much better than that which it is not! This usually gives you a lot of authentic sound in a given power rating and does not distort the sound until you reach a very high level. For example, a 500-watt higher current amp is better than a 500-watt regular current amplifier. I don’t need to tell you that almost all well-known manufacturers make high-end receivers or amps.
What is Power Rating?
How does one compare peaks, RMS, and music (all watts)? Let’s start with the RMS power which means Root Pisces Square and it’s the most conservative rating. We will understand you as further explanation. The important thing is that the RMS rating on the equipment is indicated because it refers to a quality manufacturer. I think many of my friends and I bought Meringue many years ago because RMS (20 RMS per channel) was directed and still was, in a great amp. (It can also be called ‘uninterrupted’
When you are comparing, what you are looking for is an 8-ohm reading or comprehension. Don’t buy less. If you see that any manufacturer only quotes in his arts, just get the pick without RMS, be careful. Besides, if you see words like ‘musical power’, run away!
Peak power is twice that of RMS. Peak Music Power Output (PMPO) is a term used by smart salespeople when trying to sell small wattage speakers that can sound like 100-watt speakers. Stay away from these national speakers.
Remember, as I learned in IT school, X AMPS = watts. So how many watts of RMS you need per channel from your amp or receiver, it all depends on your speaker.
You Want Speakers Who Speak to You Like You OU
The sensitivity of the speaker is rated at decibel sound pressure level (dB SPL), at a distance of 1 m (3.3 ft), and at 1-watt power. In other words, the louder the speaker, the louder it is. This indicates the power you need from your amplifier for proper hearing level and pleasure. In fact, every time you double the wattage, you add 3 dB loudly to the speaker.
Example: If you have a speaker that is set to 90 dB sensitivity and you feed it 2 watts, it will be 92 dB loud. If you feed it 4 watts, it will be 94 dB higher at a melodic height of 3.3 feet the 1 watt much louder. As a further example, a 250-watt home theater receiver produces about 101 dB and a 500-watt receiver produces about 104 dB.
In general, why is it a good idea to get an MP that is a little stronger than your speaker’s maximum rating? Because enough power can blow your speakers! In other words, you should have more power in your amp than you actually have. If your speaker has a maximum rating of 80 watts, you should have about 100 watts RMS per amp channel. However, don’t use it too much as you will have the same effect when blowing up your speakers.
Now, we have hertz (hertz). Hertz is the frequency response. It has the ability to replicate words at different frequencies. It is usually referred to as Hz as the minimum and maximum value and usually with a +/- dB rating.
For example: If your rated frequency is 50 – 20,000 Hz +/- 3 dB, it simply means that the speaker is 3 dB louder or quieter at different frequencies between 50 and 20,000 Hz. (No words) including anything that can happen. You absolutely need that DB rating and the lower it is the better. So in general, a speaker that produces 50 Hz of sound would be much more expensive than a speaker that produces 65 Hz of sound, although both speakers can achieve 20,000 Hz.